Monday, September 5, 2011

Makeup!


If you're a CD, I'm guessing you are looking for something that will cover up things like beard shadow. Depending on how dark it is, you will probably need a creme or panstick concealer and/or foundation.
  • Max Factor Panstick used to be the favorite of drag queens and crossdressers everywhere. A panstick is a creme foundation that comes in what looks like a large lipstick-type container. It's a heavy cover foundation, and it would hide nearly anything. But Max Factor no longer sells in the States, though you can find it through the secondary market but there are alternatives.
  • MAC Full Coverage Foundation is a favorite, but it's a MAC PRO store only item now. But MAC Studio Finish SPF 35 Concealer is essentially Full Coverage with SPF protection in a lot smaller container, and is available at all MAC counters. This is a creme foundation that you can apply with a brush or sponge, covers extremely well. But if you have very dry skin, it's not for you.
  • Kryolan TV Paint Stick is a panstick foundation made for theater/film/television use. It's as heavy a coverage as Max Factor Panstick, but less greasy. You'll have to go to a theatrical supply house for it, but most cities have one.
  • Dermablend, which is a corrective makeup. It's made to cover scars and blemishes, and you can find it at ULTA, Dillard's or JCPenny. It's expensive, you have to learn the right way to use it, and be patient with it. I find it works better on some people than others; you need to try it before you buy it.
  • Translucent loose powders will set your foundation/concealer, keeping it from rubbing off too easily and a smoother look. MAC, Make Up Forever, Ben Nye, etc. all make great powders. If you're using Dermablend, you need their setting powder because that seems to work the best for their formulation. Powder puffs work the best-you can "press" the powder into your foundation, then brush off the excess. This makes it stick to your foundation better.
Depending on your skin condition and what kind of look you want, you can either use any one of these as your concealer and foundation all over, or use them as a concealer and then apply a liquid foundation over it. Revlon's Colorstay is a great liquid foundation, with great coverage and shades. Make Up Forever's HD foundation is incredible, but it's also expensive and if you're not doing makeup daily might be a bad investment.
My recommended application technique:
  • After shaving, moisturizing (if needed) and/or primer, apply concealer to the beard areas. Use either a foundation brush or a damp sponge, pat it on first, then blend it out. Start with a little, then build it up. You can't remove too much foundation! You want the shadow to just disappear.
  • Next, use a translucent powder with a powder puff to "set" the concealer. This keeps it in place while you apply your foundation over it.
  • Apply your foundation over your face. If you're using a liquid, either use a stippling brush or sponge, and avoid streaking. If you're using a creme or panstick, use a far smaller amount than you did as concealer, lightly apply all over to achieve a uniform shade all over your face.
  • Apply a translucent powder over your foundation with a powder puff, let it set, then gently brush any excess off with a large, soft brush.
If you're going for a "natural" look, a concealer/liquid combo is good. If you want a very flawless, very matte finish (for performing or photography or because you want a classic look), creme/panstick all over will do it. But you need to experiment-you may find that you can work panstick for daytime look, or liquid for photos, etc.

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